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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 6:58 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 8:35 pm
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I have come to the conclusion that I need a proper hammer.
I'm using a jeweler's hammer that I think is too light.
I made a shield out of two feeler gauge leaves taped together leaving a slot in the middle.
I still managed to create dings in the fretboard.
I reckon my aim is off when hammering.
Any suggestions on how to protect the board?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:31 pm 
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there is one thing that you may need to do. Place something directly under the fret slot when hammering ( tapping ) if the board bounces you ain't setting frets.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 8:42 pm 
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Just curious...what is the relative humidity in your shop when you had this problem? How about the wood's moisture level? I ask this because I've noticed that my fret saw worked much easier when I dried my shop down to 50%. I wonder if wood with a higher moisture content will be more difficult to cut a fine channel into, or it will swell the channels down ever so slightly, but enough to give your problem.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 6:54 am 
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Well it seems like the hammer might be the answer. I've ordered one and I'll see if it makes a difference.
The humidity is around 45 - 50%. I don't think the slots are the problem because its happening on a pre-slotted board.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 9:25 am 
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I've been documenting a ukulele build elsewhere, and posted this on Monday. I'm setting the frets direct in the neck, ie no fretboard, but my methods might give you some ideas.

Quote:
Step 1 is to run my saw through the slots again - there will be shellac in there as I have some finish on the board area, which will stop the frets seating properly. Check the depth again - if unsure, make the slot a fraction deeper.

I start at the dusty end. These frets are the least used, so if I make a minor screwup it will be less noticeable when playing. By the time I get to the business end I will be well in practice. The neck needs to be supported on something - I have sand inside a plastic bag inside a pillow case, but I've used a bag of rice in the past (wrap that up, as you will split the bag!).

I hold the length of fretwire in my left hand so it projects by a tiny fraction on the far side of the neck, and then using a plastic-faced hammer, tap the far end of the fret until it starts to go into the slot. Then I hold that end down with one finger of my left hand to stop it popping up, use another finger to hold the free end of the fretwire over the slot, and tap along it until it's all starting to seat. Then I tap either end fully down, and finish by tapping down in the middle.

Image

Finally I snip the end off as close to the neck as I can using a pair of pincers ground down to a flat on the top. But anything which will cut would do.

Things to watch out for:

1. Light taps not heavy blows. Probably 20 or more light taps for each fret. You want it to sit down on the surface, but not to drive it below. If you bend it by hitting too hard, no amount of hammering will flatten it.

2. Hit only the frets - even a plastic hammer will dent the fingerboard. You can do this with a metal hammer if you are delicate, but a glancing blow with that will ding the fret (not good, remove and fit another one).

3. Leave as little overhang either end as possible. Too much makes snipping the next fret difficult. Plus if you hit the overhang you will lever the fret out of its slot.

4. If the fret won't go in fully the slot is too shallow. Pull the fret out carefully (grab it and rock it v, v gently, as anything more than a tiny wobble will put a dent in the fretboard as you lever on it with your pincers/pliers/whatever). Deepen the slot and try again, only re-using the wire if it's not in the least bent.

Here we are, all done.

Image

At this stage I put a drop of CA glue on each fret end so it wicks into the slot. Keep the glue off the fretboard, and don't be tempted to add a second drop as it will rise up out of the fret slot and stain the fretboard.

If you were installing fret markers on the fretboard you should already have done that, as it's much easier to sand them flat before the frets are in.


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